Standard Covers: Use a small cover pump to remove rain and snow melt (water). As the water is being pumped, "tighten up" the cover by pulling on its edges, so the water gathers into one easily pumped area. A "bag type" leaf net and your pool brush on the pole can be used to remove leaves and debris. After water and debris is removed, drain water bags (or remove whatever is being used to hold down sides of cover, if it is bricks ...shame on you). Water bags can be folded or rolled after being hosed clean. Remove cover quickly by fan-folding it into 3-5 ft folds on one end of the pool. Take cover to open area where it can be unfolded and hosed clean. A sloping yard or driveway makes this easier. When cover is cleaned, allow to dry or use blower to hasten drying. Fan fold (accordion-style) cover to facilitate its installation in the fall. Roll tightly and wrap with rope or twine to prevent it from unrolling during storage. Place in a dry, rodent free location for its summer storage.

Mesh Covers: Use broom, brush, leaf net, hose and/or blower to remove leaves and debris from top and edges of cover. Remove springs from anchors with removal tool. Use pipe to lever springs from anchors, if removal tool cannot be located. Use hex key (Allen wrench) to put anchors into the down position, flush with the deck. It's good practice to clean with hose and lubricate with a light oil. If anchors are showing signs of age or distortion now is the time to replace them. Fan fold cover (accordion-style) to facilitate its reinstallation in the fall. Use hose, broom or blower to clean off cover as it's folded. Fold it seam to seam, then roll like a sleeping bag and stuff it into storage bag. Place on chair to dry for a few hours before moving it INDOORS for summer storage. If storing outdoors, hang up off the ground, and / or use moth balls to repel rodents from nesting in the cover. You will appreciate the added care as mice and rodents love to burrow and knaw holes in the material (an expensive lesson learn first hand).

2. Remove expansion plugs (Freeze Plugs) and foam rope from skimmers and wall returns

Put plugs in ziploc bag and place near cover for use. Discard any that are dry-rotted and/or cracked. Replace any wall fittings (eye balls).

3. Reassemble filter, pump, heater, etc.

Replace drain plugs into pump, filter, heater, chlorinator, etc. If above-ground pool, reattach hoses removed at closing. Replace pump and skimmer baskets, pressure gauges, pool ladders, diving boards etc. Use thread sealant such as Teflon tape on all threaded plugs, connections. Do not over-tighten! If your filter is a D.E. powder tight filter, make sure clamp band is tight and properly positioned. (It was probably removed in the fall to have the filter grids pulled out and cleaned with a hose, so make sure it was re-installed correctly) Place filter valve to filter position and open air bleeder (beneath pressure gauge, usually). Open all incoming valves (before pump) and all return side valves (after filter). Lubricate valves and o-rings as needed. Fill pump basket with water from pool or hose. Replace pump lid tightly. Look for leaks out of pump. Double check that all valves and pressure relief orifices are open. Place filter valve in proper position. Slide valves (push-pull valves) should be in the down position on most DE filters and in the up position for Pac-Fab sand filters. Multiport valves should be on the filter position.

4. Turn on power to pump & start system

Watch pressure on gauge closely with your hand on power switch! Turn off if pressure rises above normal range; usually above 30 psi. Recheck that all return side valves are open. If no pressure builds at all, and pump is not pumping, shut off power after 1 minute. Repeat priming process above. If pump still won't prime up, try closing main drain valve, if present, and starting off the skimmer alone. If pump still won't catch prime after 5 or so attempts, check incoming pipes for air leaks. Repair as needed. Add 1 lb of DE powder per 5 sq. ft of filter area into the skimmer (if you have a DE filter, of course). Do this quickly, within 2 minutes of starting filter. If you have a cartridge filter replace cartridge element every 2 years. Sand filters should have their sand changed every 3-5 years.

Once system is started, adjust valves and return fittings for proper flow. Check for leaks around pump and filter; repair as needed. Note start up pressure on filter gauge. When psi is 10 lbs above this number, backwash the filter. Empty pump basket also at this time, or earlier if you notice a drop in filter pressure. If you have a heater, follow pilot lighting and test firing instructions, usually printed on back of front heater door. Operate to test and adjust all other equipment.

5. Equipment inspection, Safety inspection

Spring opening time is ideal for annual preventative maintenance steps such as cleaning, lubricating, inspecting and replacing components in all of your system equipment. Consult your owner's manual and give everything a good inspection. Look for and correct hazardous electrical conditions, such as broken conduit or connectors, lack of proper grounding or bonding, wires exposed to weather, etc. Inspect pool for tripping and slipping hazards. Check again for pressure leaks which may result pipes or equipment blowing apart. Note water level and watch the pool for leakage during the following few days.

6. Clean pool

Skim pool, vacuum pool, brush pool. Leaf rake (bag) types skim nets are best. Also useful for scooping large amounts of leaves/debris from pool floor. If pool is especially silty or has lots of algae, Vacuum Pool to Waste. This means to bypass the filter, and vacuum dirt from floors/walls out the backwash line. This prevents constant clogging/cleaning of filter. To do this, you may need to fill pool to the very top, so you can waste 1-3". Place the multiport filter valve on drain to waste position (usually 2pm, if viewed as a clock face) If you have a push-pull filter valve, or a cartridge type filter there is no easy way to vacuum to waste, except for cutting the pipe coming out of the pump and then reconnecting afterwards. Brush the pool thoroughly.

7. Check and Balance Chemistry

Use a good quality pool water test kit. Replace test kit reagents every spring (annually). Follow pool water test instructions carefully to obtain accurate results. For best results bring a sample to Aqua-Blue which will ensure a detailed test, taking the guess work out and supplying an exact print out for result and treatments.

Alkalinity first. If below the range of 80-120 ppm, add Total Alkalinity Increaser at a rate of 1 lb per 10,000 gals to raise Alkalinity levels 10 ppm. Calcium level should be 180-220 ppm. Add Calcium Hardness Increaser at a rate of 1 lb per 10,000 gals to raise Calcium levels 5 ppm. Test pH level after water has circulated 8 hrs. pH level should be 7.4-7.6 - Add pH Increaser if the water is acidic / corrosive (below 7.4). Add pH Decreaser if water is basic / scaling (above 7.6). A good test kit will allow you to perform an acid demand or base demand test to determine exact amounts of acid or base needed (demanded). A clarifier may be used to help filter efficacy. After balancing chemicals have been circulated for 8 hrs, shock or superchlorinate the pool. Add granular Shock Treatment to pool at a rate of 1 lb per 10,000 gallons, or use Liquid Chlorine at a rate of 5 gals per 10,000 gallons/pool water. Cyanuric Acid levels should be tested if chlorine is used (outdoor pools only). Add CYA (Conditioner or Stabilizer) to raise if Cyanuric Acid levels are below 30-50 ppm.

Always read instructions on packaging for proper handling, treatments and application of the pool chemicals. Distribute them broadly and never mix chemicals. Brushing pool after adding chemicals is helpful to distribution. Re-test water daily and readjust if needed. Backwash filter after 24 hrs. If algae is still present, re-shock pool, or add "kill" dosage of quality algaecide. Your pool is ready for use when chlorine level drops below 3.0 ppm, and water is clear. It may be a good move to have an annual check-up to your pool by a pool professional (Aqua-Blue of course), which is why many people use pool companies to open the pool.

NOTE: Putting the pool to bed requires specialized knowledge to ensure against freeze damage, unnecessary wear and tear and water contamination.

Testing chemical parameters & saturation index. Adjust your pH, Alkalinity and Calcium Hardness levels to optimum with quality chemicals. For best results have it tested a week prior (at Aqua-Blue) and 2 days before closing, double shock.

Lowering water to proper level for your pool type, typically 3-6" below skimmer for standard covers and 3-4" down for mesh covers. Please keep in mind all pools are different and what may work for a neighbour or friend may not work for you.

Remove ladders or handrails that interfere with cover placement .
Clean filter thoroughly. DE filter elements are removed, spray cleaned and stored in the filter tank. Cartridge filter elements should be replaced every 2-3 yrs. Replace sand every 3-5 yrs. Remove baskets, fittings, plugs, automatic cleaners, gauges, hoses, filters, etc. for storage. Be sure to remove the plugs from the pump housing (most pumps have at least 2, located on both the front and side near the bottom of the wet end.) Also remove the plug at the bottom of the filter and leave off alowing the tank to drain. Most heaters have plugs located on the side of the heat exchange and/or under the water in/out. Some heater plugs are a "wing nut" style which require the threads to be opened. We also recommend to disconnect the pressure switch and allow it to drain. Please refer to you owners manual regarding your make and model of each accessory to ensure all plugs are removed. Blow influent and effluent below ground plumbing completely free of water, antifreeze where necessary, insert 6-8 inches of foam rope and plug lines with rubber expansion plugs. If threaded plugs are used ensure a sealed fit using teflon tape. Replace plugs every 2-3 yrs. Winterize above ground equipment, including, but not limited to: heater, filter, pumps, blowers, chlorinators, by blowing out all water. Consult owner's manuals for all equipment you have.

For aboveground pools we recommend to lower the water level just below the wall outlet (return). Once this has been done it is best to remove the hoses which connect the skimmer and return to the pump amd filter. Follow all other instructions as indicated.

Covering of pool. Properly place your cover and secure tightly to keep leaves/animals out. Winterizing chemicals: Add to keep it fresh and prevent staining or algae growth during winter. We recomend to add closing chemicals to the lowered water level. Follow label instructions, and add another dose of algaecide every month or as needed to keep water algae free. Lock the gate for safety. That's It!

If you are consulting this because you want to try it yourself, consider hiring a pool company. Instead of just closing your pool, ask what they would charge to close it AND show YOU how to do it. Or, some people clean it, lower the water and cover it themselves. The pool company (Aqua-Blue of Course) only needs to blow lines and check your work. Every pool is different, and I may have given you just enough information to be dangerous!