






High pressure typically means that the filter sand is dirty and needs backwashing.
Follow the instructions for backwashing “How do I backwash my filter?”
or refer to your owners manual or follow the instructions noted on the label
located on the tank body.
Check to ensure that no valves are closed in the return line to the pool and
that there is no blockage in the return line.
Over time, the sand in your filter can become calcified or hardened from chemical
buildup. If this has occurred, you can add a degreaser to try and loosen the
sand. Often if this has occurred, the sand will need to be replaced. We recommend
replacing the sand every 3-4 years.
Do I have to backwash daily? How do I know when to backwash?
No, you do not have to backwash daily. Excessive backwashing is not recommended.
Over time, the effectiveness of the sand bed to remove particles improves.
Backwash the filter when the pressure increases 10 psi above the pressure
when it was clean. Typically, a clean filter will run 10-15 psi, so backwash
when the pressure is 20-25 psi.
How do I backwash my filter?
Turn the pump off.
Turn the filter valve handle to Backwash. (Run out backwash hose if applies).
Turn the pump on.
Typically it will take 2-3 minutes to backwash the debris from your filter.
If your filter has a backwash sight glass, backwash until the water is clear.
Turn the pump off.
Turn the filter valve handle to Rinse. (Note: this setting is not available
on all valves. If you do not have a rinse position on your valve, set the
handle to Filter and restart the pump.)
Turn the pump on and rinse for 20-30 seconds. This action removes any debris
trapped in the filter during backwash.
Turn the pump off.
Turn the filter valve handle to Filter and restart the pump.
Why is sand going into my pool?
The most common cause is a cracked lateral in the underdrain system. You
must remove the sand from
the filter and inspect the lateral / underdrain system and replace any cracked
or damaged parts.
The sand you are using may be too small, allowing it to pass through the
underdrain system.
The proper grade sand is #20 silica which is .45 to .55 mm in size. Consult
with your local pool dealer (Aqua-Blue...of course). In some cases it has
been common for algae to be mistaken for sand coming into the pool through
the return jet. To be certain it is sand, a pile will form directly underneath
the jet. If there is no pile accumalted it is most likely algae. Please refer
to water balancing/Algae found on our service page, on how to combat algae
or contact us at the office.
Why won’t my filter keep my pool clean?
You may not be running the pump long enough. Typically you should run the
pump 8-12 hrs (min.) a day or until you turn the entire volume of your pool
once a day. When a problem occurs it is best to have the pool circulating
24 hours to ensure enough filtration. Most pool pumps are designed to run
continuously and are energy efficient. Check your chemical balance. Out of
balance water can cause cloudiness. Make sure you have the proper amount of
sand in your filter. Remove the dial valve and inspect the level of sand,
the sand should be 1”-2” below the bottom of the basket. Also
make sure the upper standpipe and lower standpipe are connected tightly into
the basket. How old is the sand? The sand should be replaced every 3-4 years
to ensure proper filtration.
I have algae in my pool and my filter isn’t clearing it up,
Why?
Pool Filters can not filter out live algae. The algae must be killed by super
chlorinating your pool water. Once this is done the dead algae can be removed
with the assistance of a flocking agent. Please call Aqua-Blue for further
chemical recommendations.
When the dial valve is set on filter, water is leaking out the backwash
line. Why?
A small amount of debris or sand may be trapped between the diverter gasket
and the valve plate. To clean the valve, push down on the valve handle while
the pump is running. This will flush out the valve and usually resolve the
problem. Note that when you push down on the valve handle, water will pour
out of the backwash port.
If flushing the valve out does not resolve the problem, then you will need
to remove the valve cover and visually inspect the diverter gasket for debris
or damage. Clean valve body and diverter gasket with water or replace diverter
assembly if necessary. (Please keep in mind it is recommended to always turn
the pump off when changing the filter head setting. Failing to do so will
result in streching and distorting the diverter gasket, causing a leak out
the backwash line).
How often does the sand need to be changed?
As preventative maintenance, we recommend replacing the sand every 3-4 years.
How do I change the sand in my filter?
Turn off the pump. Set the dial valve handle to the test or closed position
(If the system is below the water level of the pool be sure to plug the skimmer/returns
if nessecary). Remove the drain plug at the bottom of the tank and allow it
to start draining, also remove the dial valve at the tank flange (the valve
will be attached by hex head bolts or a stainless steel clamp). Remove the
upper diverter and basket assembly. The easiest way to remove the sand is
by using a wet/dry shop vac. (Note: Place a plastic trash bag in the shop
vac canister for easy disposal.) If you do not have access to a shop vac,
then you must scoop the sand out of the tank. If you scoop the sand, be careful
not to damage the underdrain system when you reach the bottom of the tank.
We do not recommend laying the tank on its side, as this could also damage
the underdrain system. Once the sand is removed, inspect stem and assembly
for any cracks, be sure to check the underside of the stem. If there is any
hairline cracks or broken fingers now is the time to replace them. Cover the
standpipe opening, you want to be sure no sand is poured into the stem.. (Also
cover the tank flange bolt holes, if applicable) Slowly pour the appropriate
amount of sand into the tank. Remove the cover over the standpipe. Replace
the diverter and basket assembly if applicable. Install the dial valve. If
for any reason you are unable to replace the sand in your filter, Aqua-Blue
has trained and qualified service technicians that will be able to this for
you. In most cases it should only take 1-2 hours for this service. Sometimes
having a professional do this service saves you the time and aggravation if
a problem occurs.
I have very little flow back to the pool, the filter pressure is low
and water is coming out of the back wash line?
The hoses are connected to the filter valve incorrectly. The three connections
on the valve are labeled: PUMP, RETURN, WASTE. Make sure the hose from the
pump is connected to the port marked PUMP and that the hose to the pool is
connected to the port marked RETURN.
There are several positions on the filter valve. What does each position
do?
Filter-
Water is distributed onto the sand bed. The water flows downward through the
sand bed as dirt and debris are captured by the sand. The clean water enters
into the distribution system at the bottom of the tank. This clean water is
pushed up the center standpipe and returned back to the pool.
Backwash- Water is directed into the center standpipe and
enters the distribution system at the bottom of the tank. The water flows
upward through the sand bed washing the dirt and debris up and out of the
filter through the waste line.
Rinse- Water is distributed onto the sand bed. The water
flows downward through the sand bed to settle it after backwashing. The water
enters the distribution system at the bottom of the tank and is pushed up
the center standpipe and discharged out the waste line. (Note: This position
is not found on all valves and is only used after backwashing.)
Whirlpool/Recirculate- Water flows directly through the valve
and is returned back to the pool. This position is used if you do not want
to circulate water into the sand bed.
Drain/Waste- Water flows directly through the valve and out
the waste line. This position can also be used to vacuum heavy amounts of
debris to waste.
Test- Water will not flow in or out of the valve. If pool
equipment is below the water level, use this position when cleaning the hair
and lint strainer on the pump. It will prevent water from flowing from the
pool through the return line.
Winterize- This position lifts the diverter up from the valve
plate to keep the diverter gasket from flattening out during off-season. It
also allows air to enter the tank when draining.



NEW! Upper Distribution System integrated into the dial
valve and engineered to direct water evenly across the entire surface of the
sand – up to 25 gpm/sq.ft.
Underdrain with side-slotted laterals draws water evenly across the full diameter
of the sand bed for higher flows, better filtration, and more efficent backwashing.
NEW! 7-way Dial Valve with sight glass, automatic air relief, and pressure
gauge. the 7 functions include:
Filter
Backwash
Rinse
Whirlpool
Drain
Test
Winterize
NEW! Non-Corrosive Resin Clamp for simple installation and
service of dial valve and filter components.
Corrosion resistant, ultraviolet resistant, precision moulded one-piece tank.
Heavy-duty, freeze resistant hub and easy-service snap-fit laterals.
Pump Features Include:
Exclusive RING-LOK™
strainer cover provides positive seating and simple removal.
Patented air cooled heat sink allows pump to run dry without damage to the
shaft seal. UNCONDITIONAL TWO-YEAR WARRANTY AGAINST SEAL FAILURE.
25-foot grounded power cord and on-off toggle switch.
Convenient thumbscrew type drain plug allows for easy removal when winterizing.
The pump base is strong, corrosion resistant and provides a heavy duty foundation
for stress-free support of the motor and pump.